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[Filling-In Diagram]

The following diagrams are for your personal use only. You may make a printout for yourself, if you would like to make multiple copies for use in classes please contact me for permission, do NOT make copies for inclusion in kits. I do not "own" this technique, as it is a traditional Appalachian technique that I learned from studying old baskets in my parent's collection, so please feel free to teach it to others, but I do "own" the copyright on the photos, written descriptions and drawings seen here. I hope this eliminates any confusion over fair use of these diagrams.

Tony Stubblefield

In the following steps I will try to explain to you how I "fill-in" or compensate for the bulbous shape of a buttocks baskets. This techniques is also very important for other ribbed baskets such as: the back of a key or half basket; a herb or pie basket; or, an oriole basket.

1. After adding all of the ribs you will notice that you have more space in certain areas of the basket. By looking inside the basket you can see the areas that needs to be "filled-in" (highlighted in red). Once the "filling-in" is completed the remaining section of weaving will be a straight swatch.

2. Here, looking from the outside, you can see the areas that need to be "filled-in". The areas should be approximately symmetrical. .

3. This basket is relatively flat on the bottom, a basket with a more exaggerated, bulbous shape will require much more "filling-in" than the shape demonstrated here.

4. For my students to be better able to visualize the areas that need to be "filled in", we mark the ribs with a pencil. First mark the center of the basket, then find the narrowest section left to be woven (this is usually at the rim). A piece of reed can be used as a measuring guide to mark an even section down the center of the basket.

5. Here is the marked area highlighted in red. The marks are only an approximation of the area that will need to be "filled-in". You will need to do some "eye balling" and packing to get it to work out evenly.

6. The special "filling-in" turndown I use is only done on the ribs where the row of weaving before was "under" (see photo). If in doubt of how far to go before turning back, I always make sure the mark is covered, You can always pack later to make more room.

7. Here is the special turndown. It is almost like a figure eight. The weaver comes back around to the inside of itself and crosses back to the outside. Again notice this is done on the rib (highlighted in purple) where the row before was an "under" row.

View line drawing

8. Now coming back around on the next row, the turndown will again be on rib (highlighted in purple) where the row before was an "under". The turn-down will always be on every other rib.

9. Again the 3rd turn-down is on the rib (highlighted in purple) where the row before was an "under" row.

10. Remember the areas to be "filled-in" on this basket are shaped like a crescent so the turn-downs have to be done on the bottom of the basket on each row.

11. Once no more turn-downs can be made, the weaving continues as normal.

12. The special trick of the figure eight twist should now be apparent. As you work the first row of "normal" weaving, it will cover the twists making them virtually invisible.

NOTE: I am only showing you one quadrant of the basket. The same "filling-in" is done on the opposite side of the basket as well.

13. After a couple rows of regular weaving it is time to take a look at the remaining space.

14. You could again do the measuring and marking, but a quick way to judge a straight line is to use the tail of the weaver. Here you can see that just a small amount of "filling-in" will be necessary to make the remaining area a straight shot of weaving.

15. This time only a few turndowns are needed to compensate. Again they are done on the ribs (highlighted in purple) where the row before is an "under" row.

16. After completing the final turn downs and covering them with the next row or regular weaving you can see that the weaving is now parallel to the center marks.

17. Here I have woven to the center of the basket to make it easier to visualize the remaining area to be woven.

NOTE: Normally I would alternate working on each side and meet in the center.

18. Here is the remaining area that needs to be "filled-in" As you saw on the other side of the basket this may not be accomplished in one pass of turn-downs.

NOTE: If the basket is symmetrical each quadrant should require the same amount of "filling-in" .

19. Here all the "filling-in" has been done and the remaining space is a nice straight shot of weaving.

20. The final rows of weaving should meet each other and splice together. You may need to do a little packing to get the last row in, but that will make the basket nice and tightly woven.

21. Here is a photo of one of the "filling-in" sections. It is not completely invisible, but it is less noticeable than some methods.

NOTE: The more ribs you have in your basket the more places you can turn-down and the quicker you can achieve the "filling-in" process.

22. This is not a difficult technique, but it is a hard one to visualize. I hope these photographs and instructions help. Be patient and with a little practice you should be able to do this without much effort and I am sure you will be happy with the results.


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Page created June 17, 1999
Copyright, J. Anthony Stubblefield, 1997-2013